Copenhagen: a foodie’s dream

Copenhagen has been known as one of our world’s food capitals for a long time now and so it’s no surprise that Luke and I chose to go there for our five year anniversary. I got so many restaurant recommendations – way more than the number of meals we could fit into the four-day trip. Add to that a bunch of my own research and asking the locals on arrival, it was set to be a great (and filling) trip. Here’s what we got up to and where I’d recommend eating, should you be heading that way.

I loved the whole feel of this great city, that seems to have its priorities in order. It’s clean, responsible, friendly, increasingly sustainable and stylish. There are so many different areas, from party central Nørrebro to family friendly Østerbro. Each as beautiful as the next.

After a lot of research, we decided to stay in Vesterbro and found a little AirBnb which did the job nicely. It’s apparently the trendy area of Copenhagen and is where all the cool people live; that’s definitely reflected in the shops, bars and restaurants around there – we were spoilt for choice just on our doorstep. It’s also home to the meat packing district which was once the heart of Copenhagen’s meat industry businesses. It’s now a bustling collective of creativity in the form of restaurants, shops and bars. And it’s brilliant.

Copenhagen meatpacking district
Here’s a smiling Luke outside Kødbyens Fiskebar in the meatpacking district
Copenhagen meatpacking district
Amazing architecture at the meatpacking district

We saw the sights

Nyhavn, Copenhagen
The famous, colourful Nyhavn

As they say in Copenhagen, life is lived on the saddle of a bike. And the whole city is totally set up for bikers with cycle lanes everywhere. At just 5’1″, finding a bike that fits me isn’t easy. Luckily there are bike hire shops on every corner and eventually we found one that had, I quote, “a little girly bike” built for teenagers. Lilac with flowers, everywhere. I think they were about £10 per bike per day.

Of course, we went on a boat ride around the waterways. We found a great company called Hey Captain which operates tiny boats that only seat up to 10 people – we’d highly recommend them as you get a much more intimate experience.

We also cycled over to Christiania, the self-proclaimed anarchist district where about 1,000 people live, law-free. There are lots of little independent sellers within the area; wares include jewellery, clothing and weed. Houses can’t be bought here – you have to apply for one and, if granted, it’s given to you. There are some low-key food sellers and it has the most beautiful industrial buildings. We just wandered but there are some guided tours by the residents. It’s really worth a visit.

Colourful and friendly Christiania

The home of design

As an interiors nut, we were constantly slamming on the brakes to go check out ceramics and design shops as we were cycling passed. Make sure you do this (not the slamming on brakes bit) – the Danish have THE most beautiful furniture and tableware I’ve ever seen. My suitcase home was half-filled with trinkets.

Worth checking out are Design WerckHøjStudio Arhoj and of course the Royal Copenhagen flagship store.

Where to eat in Copenhagen

Disclaimer: I should state again that when I’m on holiday, I don’t tend to strictly follow a low FODMAP diet. I let loose (not totally) and deal with the consequences after – that’s just my preference and I’m lucky that my symptoms allow me to do that. So these are general food recommendations rather than low FODMAP ones.

Mad & Kaffe

Mad & Kaffe

These guys do sharing, tapas-style breakfast and it’s wonderful! Such a fun idea.

Be warned: everything comes with rye bread in Copenhagen so if you’re not eating wheat, you’ll need to mention this wherever you go.

The coffee here is great and mine had a cow etched into the foam – what more do you need.

Kødbyens Fiskebar

Located in the meatpacking district, this seafood restaurant comes alive in the evening. It’s filled with all kinds of people and this was, by far, one of our favourite areas during the whole trip. There are several bars around to have a drink in before dinner and the Warpigs Brewery is great for a night cap.

The food at Kødbyens Fiskebar is exceptional. Like, really good. Even just the butter (which is packed full of seaweed) was levels above any other I’ve had. Our absolute favourite was the brill (it really was brill), which was served with a mussel cream and little discs of toasted rye.


We went here on our anniversary and what a special evening it was! They really bring out the best of Nordic cuisine and have a heavy focus on freshly grown vegetables and herbs. The setting is a beautiful indoor greenhouse. We went for the three course menu with a wine pairing and it was surprisingly well-priced for how utterly delicious and classy everything was.

Torvehallerne food market

This food market is one of the best I’ve seen. It’s filled with different mini-restaurants, bars and interior shops and we honestly could have grazed the entire trip away here. Of particular note were:

  • Hija de Sanchez for some of the most insane tacos I’ve ever had
  • Hav2Go for the immense fish platters – it’s like a deli style set-up and you can choose to have as many portions as you like. We went for the biggest (obviously) which I would recommend as it means you get to try almost everything. We went all fish, no salads. But that’s what you’re there for, right?
  • And Laura’s Bakery for the ABSOLUTE BEST frosted cinnamon rolls


If you want something truly special, then Amass is your place. We had a four hour, ten course meal here and it was absolutely wonderful.

Stunning, industrial Amass

Thorupstrand Fish

Finally, save room for some fiskefrikadeller (that means fish cakes but how much better is the Danish word?!) aboard the Jammerbugt. Presented here by Luke.


I know that all of this was just the tip of the iceberg and I already can’t wait to get back, get on my little girly bike and discover some more of this amazing city.

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